Waking up this morning in the town of my dreams, breathing the misty morning air of the town so close to the purity of nature, made my morning a perfectly memorable one.

I was all set to discover this town of mesmerizing beauty. We quickly met the owner of our hotel who gave us an idea of whereabouts of the town. We planned accordingly and took off. Gurez is inhabited by the community of Dard who were spread widely along the border of the Himalayas imbibing a unique culture, tradition, and language called Shina. However, only a part of the community resides in India now, and are separated by their ancestors in Gilgit-Baltistan (now in Pakistan) due to the partition that happened decades ago. Residents of the town speak this rare language of Shina, although it wasn’t difficult for us to find people who knew Hindi from whom we gathered some information.

The first among the attractions which everybody talks about in Gurez is Habba Khatoon, one of the marvelous peaks of Gurez. Besides its fascinating view, it’s known for its very name, Habba Khatoon was a beautiful Kashmiri poetess in the 16th century. She is known to have been wandering near this peak looking for her husband, Emperor Yousuf  Shah Chak who was captivated by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. She spent all her life singing and waiting for him but he never returned. To have her remembered in the history for centuries to come, the peak was named so. Standing majestically tall, it depicts true love through its strength and royalty. It reminds me that the perseverance of pure love is proved time and again in our history. The sight of this pyramid shaped mountain just at a distance of 10 km from your neighboring country is totally thrilling. Kishen Ganga in India on one side at her base, Neelam in Pakistan flowing around her on the other side, I must say its a real treat to watch her grandeur. The peak also has another special feature, wherein the river flowing at her base is milky white in color unlike in any other part of its stream and is having a myth associated with it as per the local residents.

Next on our journey was Tulail valley in Sheikhpora Village,30 km drive from Gurez amidst the breathtaking dangerous cut roads on the mountains, we reach the banks of this valley to find a unique variety of houses built with logs in a particular fashion. These symmetric houses in various shades of brown, few on the mountains and few on the banks of valley marks the architecture here. The scenic beauty of flowered meadows surrounding the houses on the lap of mountains gives the phrase ‘heaven on earth’ total justice. Although this place looks perfect to escape for a living, it is very challenging to live here since the valley remains shut down for 6 months due to snowfall and hence people here have to stack up their food for the entire winter season. The valley gets power for only around 4-5 hrs a day through diesel generators and solar sources. People struggle to get their basic necessities fulfilled seldom any development from the Government. There are instances where people seek immediate protection and help from the army camps which are mostly found surrounding the borders of this valley.

Traveling across these roads piercing between the mountains makes me wonder how traders traveled here, as it was the famous ‘Silk route’ connecting Eastern India to the regions of East Africa,West Asia and Southern Europe. Since this valley is under high security requiring prior permission from the Army generals to visit, it seems to be more secluded and setback in terms of progression. It also lies en route a recently discovered way to Ladakh from Kashmir. This route once open to the public may emanate some rays of hopes for development in the valley is what the residents believe. Immense serenity of nature and undisturbed antiquity here somehow binds the helpless plight of natives.

For me, the irony of the moment was, if every habitat of the planet gets modernized then how does a human realize his unanimity with the cosmos! It felt like I wanted to stay here for an eternity. Not wanting to miss this moment, I tried capturing some of them in my camera wondering if they were anything near to what my eyes had captured in that instance. For all the lovers of nature photography, this is a must visit spot.

 On our way to the next destination, we could spot another mountain called Harmukh with a peak elevation of 5142 mts in Ganderbal district. Located in the lap of Gangabal lake, it is believed to be the abode of Lord Shiva as per Hindu mythology and also is a famous peak for trekking. The view of it from across a distance on the road itself was so regal that am sure trekking this mountain will be unbelievably blissful.

As the dusk played in the evening sky to give spectacular patterns of light, we reached Gurez viewpoint to capture all the marvel of Gurez at once. The rendezvous of pristine Kishanganga streams, lofty mountain ranges, mushy green plantations and chilled breeze laden with the freshness of foliage was a boon to savor. Words fall short to describe this beauty. Only a perfect blend of emotions and senses can experience this joy. Clearly, one needs to be there to know it! I was loathing in its charm for quite a long while until I was called out by my cousins reminding me to get back before it was too dark. Relishing the sight of Habba Khatoon standing tall and charismatic against the nightfall on our way, we headed towards our rooms. Although we got back and rested that night, a part of me was still at the splendid views of Gurez.

The next morning we got our car tyre fixed and left for home but found an add on destination at a distance of 7 km from Gurez on Dawar road. ‘Gurez ka Gulmarg’ as it is famously called, Izmarg is a low land area of widespread lawn and other flora. We could hear the noise of firing as we neared this place. The Army officials told us that there were encounters going on from past 4 days but promised us a quick view of the land since we pleaded them. One of them checked our IDs and took us there. Yet another wave of warmth and thrill turned in me with its very sight. Before I could perceive this, firing sounds alerted me and we had to rush out soon.  Given the right opportunity and time, one should definitely explore this landscape.

Further on our route back to Razdan pass we saw the deadly roads that we had traveled the other night. Looking at those gorges and steep curves on the rough roads got me goosebumps. It was a crazy experience but I knew I carried a bag full of unforgettable memories for my life.

Gurez is a place, once you visit keeps calling you over and again to get engrossed in its invigorating tranquility. Sending across tons of thanks to Rehman chacha for planting in me the desire to discover this valley, I promised myself to get back to this real heaven on earth!!!